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90 Points - Allen Meadows’ - “Note: from vines that range in age from 30 to 85 years Producer note: Bénigne Joliet is the 6th generation to direct this historic domaine and he has made many changes in the last few years beginning with buying out the other family members which permits him to direct matters as he chooses. Between 2005 and 2007 the wines were made by Philippe Charlopin with Joliet's involvement. Now Joliet makes them himself and with respect to the 2015 vintage, he described it as one that "wasn't really all that challenging but for a bit of early season oidium. The flowering was fast but troubled which had predictable, and negative, consequences for yields. Otherwise it was easy as the conditions were hot and dry so all we really had to do was watch the fruit ripen! I chose to pick late relative to most of my neighbors, which is to say between the 15th and the 22nd of September. Even though the fruit was so clean that there were no losses from sorting, yields were still only around 25 hl/ha. Ripeness levels were uniform and thus there is no second wine in 2015. Potential alcohols varied slightly from one parcel to another but on average it came in right at 13.2%. I used 100% whole clusters and did a soft vinification; in fact it was really more of an infusion than anything else. The fermentation was surprisingly fast at only 12 days rather than the usual 20 and I don't know why because the temperatures in the vats really didn't climb much at all. In hindsight I believe that this was a good thing because the real challenge in 2015 wasn't the growing season so much as preserving the freshness in your wine. As to the style of the 2015 I would compare it to my 2009, which is to say ripe, dense and serious." The 2014 Clos de la Perrière, revisited below, was bottled in October 2016, which means it was given a full two years of élevage. Tasting note: Here too there is a touch of wood to the elegant and pure aromas of red currant, spice, lavender and herbal tea-suffused nose. There is a lovely freshness to the vibrant and beautifully detailed medium-bodied flavors where the minerality is more prominent, all wrapped in a rich, agreeably textured and impressively lingering finish where a hint of bitter cherry appears. This refreshing effort should be approachable relatively young but it has the balance to age well too.”
Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Fixin
Vintage: 2014