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Review STEIN RIESLING SPATLESE ‘ALFER HOLLE 1900’ 2016
STEIN RIESLING SPATLESE ‘ALFER HOLLE 1900’ 2016
"It’s perhaps difficult to speak of an overarching “style” at Stein; or maybe it’s that the word, the concept, just doesn’t feel right. Winemaking with Ulli is refreshingly light on “style,” on some idea projected into the vineyards, and more about what the vineyards say to him. Certainly there is a focus on wines that are dry; lightness and zip are more important than gobs of fruit. Complexity is good, but not at the expense of the whole – better to be simple and well done than overdone and, well, a mess. Cut is more important than size."