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Review REGIS FOREY CLOS VOUGEOT GRAND CRU 2016

REGIS FOREY CLOS VOUGEOT GRAND CRU 2016

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92-94 Points - Allen Meadows’ Burghound.com - “Producer note: Régis Forey describes the 2016 vintage as "a massive struggle for the first half of the season and one of cautious optimism for the second. We got killed by the frost in most if not all of our vineyards but particularly so in Nuits. My total yields were between 15 and 17 hl/ha and a few vineyards weren't touched so that tells you just how bad the damage was in those that were. The attack of mildew that arrived in May and stayed for almost all of June is one of the worst that I have ever seen. After the middle of July better conditions arrived and thankfully they stayed until the harvest which I chose to begin on the 29th of September. The fruit was as clean as it was in 2015, which is to say largely spotless so there was not much sorting to be done. Better still, the fruit was quite ripe with potential alcohols that ranged between 12 and 13% so there was little chaptalization. I used around 40% whole clusters during what was an easy vinification and then used more new wood than I usually do, which is to say between 50 and 80%. As to the wines, they are structured and serious but more classic than say 2015 is. In fact the 2016s remind me quite a bit of a more concentrated version of 2014." As I often do given Forey's straightforward opinions, I agree with his view of his 2016s. They offer excellent quality and are fashioned in a robust style with a dollop of new wood that usually requires 2 to 5 years to ultimately integrate. Forey noted that his 2015s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2017. I would further comment that his 2015s have turned out slightly better than I foresaw as they seem to have picked up freshness. Tasting note: This is actually aromatically similar to the Echézeaux if slightly earthier and not quite as spicy. There is by contrast both more volume and more concentration as well to the bold, robust and broad-shouldered flavors that possess a velvety mid-palate that contrasts markedly with the distinctly firm and even mildly rustic and warm finish that is fashioned in a take-no-prisoners style. This is also potentially excellent but while the Ech could be approached young, this is a Clos de Vougeot that will definitely need extended cellaring.”